The last real post I gave you was about maternity in the 1800’s. I have more maternity posts coming at some point, but in the meantime I thought I’d share one of my favourite subjects with you.
Up until the 1920’s young boys and girls were dressed alike. Babies in the 1800’s for the most part wore white cotton dresses. These were usually trimmed with lace, embroidery, and sometimes cutwork or frills, or they could be left plain. White cotton dresses made a lot of sense, they were easily sewn at home, fairly cost effective and were unisex. Couples back then tended to have a lot of children, and not all made it past infancy. Plain (or fancy) white dresses could be used again and again with each child that came along, requiring little more than washing and mending. Often these infant dresses were very long (think Christening gown), as baby had no ability to walk yet.
As toddlerhood approached the children would be “shortcoated” and usually gain some more colourful, shorter dresses to wear. These dresses were shorter to give the child more mobility as they learned to walk. The brighter or darker colours were often used for boy’s dresses, while girls wore pastels (light blue was considered very feminine) although pink and white were considered unisex. Boys dresses were often made of thicker fabrics and included design features like belts and metal buttons, these helped distinguish them from girls dresses. Boys dresses were also often made in the style of sailor or soldier outfits of the time as this was considered quite fashionable. For your viewing pleasure I have included photos of a soldier style dress in our collection. The first photo is of my son wearing a replica of the dress for our Historic Fashion Review, and the second photo is the original garment on a toddler sized mannequin.
When did boys begin to wear pants?
When boys transitioned to their first pair of pants it was called breeching. Boys were often breeched at age 7, but this was not a set age. It was up to the discretion of the boy’s parents to decide when he was ready to go from a dress to pants like his father. Breeching was an exciting time for a young boy, and often would include a special haircut (maybe even his first!) and sometimes a gift of a toy sword to symbolize his transition from boyhood.
Why did boys wear dresses?
Some have speculated that it might have been for easier potty training, and at the time it wasn’t considered a strange thing to wear a dress. In other words, why wouldn’t they have worn dresses? There was no real reason to put a small child in pants. Up until the 1920’s it was completely normal. Male children didn’t feel emasculated because every other young male was wearing a dress as well. Around war time (just before the 1920’s) life began to change for everyone and the gender roles became more defined at even younger ages and it would appear that trend has continued with the specialization of children’s clothing and toys. The fashion industry and media have helped convince us that only certain colours and styles may be worn by males. Obviously if we look back in time we can see that this is not true. There are even some cultures today where men still wear dresses or skirts. I’m sure the first thing that comes to mind for most people is the kilt from Scotland, men in India also wear a garment that could be considered a dress from a North American perspective. So as you can see the cut and colour of clothing do not necessarily “make the man”.
Here’s some citations and further reading for you, and I highly recommend the Smithsonian article:
I hope to photograph some more of the little boys dresses in our collection at a later date to post. In the meantime, I’d love to read your comments.